A Journey Through the Colors of the Côte Vermeille
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Chapter 1: The Quest for the Perfect Shade
Finding a more evocative term for blue can be a challenge. One could opt for the more exotic "azure," a hue associated with the clear sky, but that doesn't fully capture the essence of the Mediterranean. The color of the sea, influenced by the sky, reveals a different kind of blue, one that unfolds before you as you navigate a winding French street, revealing the vastness of the Mediterranean like an eye opening to the dark.
However, this is not Provence; it is the Côte Vermeille, a 20-kilometer stretch of rugged coastline from Argeles to the almost mythical Spanish border. Unlike azure, which is a clear blue, vermillion—a dusky orange-red derived from the mineral cinnabar—better describes this vibrant coast.
I find myself at a disadvantage when it comes to perceiving colors. While I see colors similarly to most humans—appreciating the myriad shades—my perception is likely less refined than that of my wife, who distinguishes the sea's colors in ways I cannot. Her vision reveals a spectrum of hues, while I focus on the movement of the water.
The initial sight of the sea brings a sense of wonder that no word can truly encapsulate, especially for someone who has traveled far to witness it for the first time. No single term can convey the breathtaking moment when the sea reveals itself between colorful houses, creating a profound sense of awe as the ordinary fades away.
A Colorless Morning
The taxi ride felt surreal, with fogged windows blurring the Parisian traffic outside. The view was obscured by the thick black lettering of fare regulations, while our driver—dressed in a suit—navigated the slow-moving vehicles filled with a mix of office workers and laborers. My wife and I, exhausted from our journey, wore whatever we had hastily packed.
Our cat, resigned to her fate after a long flight, sat quietly in her carrier. As the taxi inched toward Gare du Lyon, the meter climbed ominously close to €100. Upon arrival, we faced unexpected armed security—an apparent bomb threat had shut down part of the station. We maneuvered around the chaos, our focus on the five-hour train journey ahead, leaving no room for anger.
Pro Tip: Pack a Library
Before embarking on your travels, ensure you have access to a library. Most libraries offer a wealth of e-books that can be downloaded to your device. As we sped through the French countryside on the TGV, I immersed myself in Alain de Botton's "The Art of Travel," watching the landscape shift from trees and fields to dramatic cliffs and valleys.
De Botton argues that we travel in search of beauty, but beauty is subjective. While many find the ocean stunning, it’s our perception that imbues it with value. Historically, mountains were seen as daunting obstacles rather than beautiful vistas, and leisure travel is a relatively new concept tied to advancements in transportation.
Traveling used to be a burden, a necessity rather than a pleasure. Even today, moving through different time zones with family and a pet can feel more like a chore than a delight. Yet, beauty is still present, waiting to be discovered.
Finding Beauty in the Everyday
De Botton discusses Xavier de Maistre's "Voyage Around My Room," a travel guide to one's own bedroom. After prolonged isolation, the idea of exploring the familiar can seem daunting. Yet, wonders exist in our immediate surroundings. The intricacies of our bodies and minds are marvels deserving of appreciation.
Travel offers an escape from the mundane. The daily grind often overshadows beauty; we become too focused on responsibilities to notice the subtleties around us. New environments shatter our routine filters, allowing us to see the world through fresh eyes. Traveling reawakens our sense of wonder, as even mundane tasks become thrilling adventures.
Chapter 2: The Allure of Color
Exploring the vibrant hues of the Mediterranean, particularly the royal blue that the ancient Phoenicians mastered, connects us to history. The dye they produced was so precious that it was worth its weight in silver. This rich blue, derived from the murex snail, embodies the essence of the sea.
Yet, the sea is not merely a color; it is an experience. The sounds of waves on pebbles, the white lines marking the ocean's surface, and the foamy crashes against the rocks create a sensory tapestry that no photograph or description can replicate.
While I can describe the beach in extensive detail, it remains a personal journey, one that leads to your unique experiences—your own vibrant seascapes and sun-kissed adventures. Ultimately, the desire to capture these moments stems from a longing for connection, a hope to share the beauty we encounter.
Now, I seek the right word to encapsulate that feeling.
© Ryan Frawley 2021
All proceeds from this article will be donated to Doctors Without Borders/Medecins Sans Frontiers.